Wednesday, March 31, 2010

My local coffee spot


Here at my brothers place in Thailand I found the best place to go for coffee was at a newly opened cafe on the side of the highway a couple of blocks away. The coffee is great and like Sidhartha, contemplating the river of life, I am able to relax and reflect on the flow and the meaning of life while everyone else hurries to some unknown destination.

Stop signs

Imagine a city of 8 million or more people. Now imagine that that city has no stop signs. Hard to image.... but that is Ho Chi Minh City and the whole south of Vietnam. Sure they have traffic circles and the street lights in some major places but that is about it. The secret is that no one speeds. Everyone goes at the same pace. The only person I saw speeding on our whole journey through South Vietnam turned out to be an American. So watch the video to see it work.... one is from the hotel roof and the other is us just walking across the street. Once you realize that traffic never stops and you follow a local into oncoming traffic, you see and get into the rhythm of stepping off the curb, out into 20 advancing cars and 100 scooters and motorbikes, and walking slowly but steadily across the street.... is how everyone does it and it just somehow makes perfect sense...and I found it no end of fun. This marks the end of our Vietnam journey we are heading back to Thailand then off to Cambodia...

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Getting down to business



When we encounter different aspects of foreign cultures we often think.... how exotic....or isn’t that an interesting way of doing things... that is in all areas except the one... the one dealing with the most basic and natural of all ... going to the bathroom... the most primal of all activities seems to cause us the most concern and discomfort....

When you first encounter the squatty potty a part of the western mind kicks in and tends to imagine the advances in our superior technology and way of life.... because who would squat when you can sit, who would wash or spray yourself off with water when you can just wipe with a piece paper....and where is the toilet paper anyway and what do you mean it is for drying yourself after washing with water and putting into the garbage not flushed away with the business at hand....

As we sit on our thrones like kings imagining the superiority of our modern advanced civilization...just think what these poor Asians imagine when they first come to our country.... Actually they are as shocked about our methods as we are of theirs... they have a hard time imagining sitting on a plastic seat on which thousands of strangers have sat on with their bare butts since it was last thoroughly cleaned... or they wonder why we would want to use a thin piece of paper, pressing their fingers against their butts to scrape off their remaining business instead of using a hose and water, and while sitting there they might imagine how can anyone eat with the same hand that they used to wiped their butt with only a thin piece of paper....

So we need to rethink our superior position for when it comes right down to it the squatty potty is not only a more natural position to assume while going to the bathroom it is a far more cleaner and practical design for a public toilet.... just be careful to not pee on your shoes...
“There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.”
Robert Louis Stevenson

Monday, March 22, 2010

Sidewalks??

It appears that in HCM city that the sidewalks are not for walking but are for the most part an extension of the work areas of the stores or a place to park you scooters. As you can see Aja was not too impressed, on going for walk just to see the sights along the sidewalks with her dad who kept stopping. As well we had to continually step out into traffic as we weaved our way around the many workers, rebuilding motors, upholstering cars making boxes and a vast number of other entertaining things to watch as we tried to move around the city...I thought it was great fun in itself meandering along the sidewalks. 'Sidewalks' journeys should be treated as an adventure in itself. So if you want to go anywhere in a hurry you should definitely stay off the sidewalks because getting places is what the scooter taxis are for.

Shiver me timbers

This is a great shop in Ho Chi Minh city that brother Thomas took us to... it is full of model boats from all era's of human navel navigation. Apparently to ensure the accuracy of each particular vessel each of the ships is made by only one family. These guys that run the shop know their stuff.... They asked us where we were from and when we said Canada they listed off all the famous old and new ships, and even corrected uncle Thom (which is almost impossible to do) about whether one of the ships was from the Atlantic or the Pacific based on the number and jib of the sails the aweigh and the backstay.... For a couple of foreign, land locked, lubber's these city boys were really impressive with their knowledge of the hundreds of boats in their shops... they could sit with any salty or wan-a-be salty like papa and knaw away the hours with sailing tales. 'Avast' says I as I realized that the only sailing terms I know appear to have come from pirate movies or Popeye. So I added little to the conversation except to add ballast weight as a delighted observer... And of course headed out of the shop with a medium sized model replica of the original bluenose for the cost 150 of the Canadian coins that she is immortalized on. If your ever in HCM city I recommend setting a bearing or charting a course for this anchorage as a relaxing, informative, entertaining way to spend an afternoon.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Chu Chi Tunnels

The Chu Chi tunnels are 250 km of narrow underground passages between villages and underground facilities that allowed the Viet Cong to appear and disappear almost like ghosts during the Vietnam war. These tunnels were all built by hand using only small hand tools. These tunnels are a badge of pride to the people, from these small tunnels they used small artillery and land mines to combat tanks and a more heavily armed forces. This area is littered with destroyed tanks and underground bunkers. I could not fit down the entrance hole and I was only in a tee-shirt not in military gear and carrying any weapons. When the soldier at the tunnel saw me taking his picture, he made a peace sign, I was moved by his simple, yet profound gesture at this tunneled and scorched piece of the earth.

in tunnel

These pictures show me in the tunnel, this was the very largest part of the tunnels, and with the flash it looks nice and bright, but the 50 m of tunnel that we crawled through were mostly in pitch dark and had been widened for us tourists. Even in the wider tunnel I found it hard enough to go the 50 m, while the average distance covered in any day by the Viet Cong was 10 km. There were over 250 km of tunnels and kitchens, meeting rooms, hospitals, sleeping quarters and much more all underground. In fact the first American army base was built over a part of the existing tunnels from the time of the French. It took the Americans a long time to figure out why they were being shot at during the night from inside their camp. The one picture of me in a crater is a hole from a single B52 bomb. The craters were used to hide the dirt from the new tunnels that were being built. The tunnel war was so successful in this area that the Americans had the rule of dropping any unused bombs into this area at the end of any bombing mission. During the war 16 thousand people lived or operated underground, only 6 thousand survived the 10 thousand day war.

In any village and even family there were those who supported the Americans and those that supported the Viet Cong so at meetings everyone wore masks so they would not know who else was there. In fact I kept a good eye on Aja while we were there, but I am sure she is on the same side as me.... or is she?

Pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623542659287/

Chu Chi Tunnels video


This video shows how small and hidden the entrances of the tunnels were. In our group only Aja could fit down the hole.

Viet Cong Foot Traps




The Vietnamese are proud of their defeat of the United States and it will be a long time before they will give up the bragging rights, if ever. The museum called “the American war museum” would better be named the "Look how we beat those dam Americans using only primitive methods war museum” but then it would probably not attract as many tourists.... well American tourists.... I almost felt sorry for an American couple on the tour.... almost .... but the other couple on the tour were German and they weren’t offering any sympathy either...

Basically the war was fought by gorilla tactics using hunting traps, the Viet Cong had no tanks and moved mostly by foot.. These foot and tiger traps were common.... covered in grass and leaves these traps were invisible to an advancing soldier. They seem barbaric, as they were designed to maim not kill. The victims could be captured and as it took 3 to 4 men to look after getting the injured man out of the jungle, each trap removed several men from the battle. How barbaric or justifiable it was seems to depend on which side you are on. When men were injured in these traps the US troops responded with helicopter gun ships, tanks and B52 bombers dropping everything including napalm to chemical weapons such as agent orange. What struck me here, like in old war zones in Europe, is that War is Hell...the costs of war are unbelievable, long lasting, and despite the valor of individuals, there is no honor.... there is no honor..... there is no honor... only shame..

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Snail's Pace


The speed of life outside the big cities in Vietnam moves at a snails pace. Well may be just a little quicker because someone has to go fast enough to catch these members of the molluscan class to serve for dinner. While in Vietnam I ate what I was offered because I was being given the best that the people had to give. In this case it turned out to be a rather tasty treat. We also ate many strange and odd looking fish, squid, eel and I think snake...


Snake Oil


In North America the term snake oil is what we call someone selling something fake or a product that is dubious or ineffective or has made exaggerated claims about the quality or benefit.... so I laughed when I saw these stands selling snake oil.... At first I thought these jars were being sold as a snack but apparently snake oil is a traditional Chinese medicine for treating joint pain. Whether the snake oil works or not on the old joints doesn't really matter because having the snakes in jars, instead of slithering around, would mean that I would feel a lot better about walking around to give my joints a stretch...

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Hotel in Vi Than Vietnam

This is the hotel we stayed in in Vi Than. Like so many buildings in Vietnam to make use of the small size of the lot the buildings are narrow and tall. Another unique feature of the hotel, and quite a few buildings we saw, is the fact that the first step up to the hotel is about half a meter tall making it hard to step up to. So there is a ramp which I thought was to help you step up but it was not well designed or easy to walk on. Then I realized that it was not for people to walk up but to allow the staff or guests to drive their scooters or motorbikes into the lobby/restaurant at night. Kind of like a drawbridge. The hotel was great, for $20 a night, and as usual the cheaper the hotels the better the free internet. I have marveled all the way across Europe and Asia how the higher priced hotels want you to pay outlandish rates to access the internet.

No monkey mob


One of the workers at the hotel in Vi Than Vietnam had a pet monkey. It was playful and sweet and everything you would want a monkey to be. Seeing a single adorable monkey restored our delight of the total cuteness of monkeys that had been shaken by standing in a mob of hungry monkeys and having them all focused on getting your bag of corn. I guess like people, individuals are easier and more fun to deal with than when they are a mob.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Vi Than Market

Central to any day in Vietnam is not just preparing food but also shopping for your food fresh everyday. These farmers markets are a way of life for the locals and a way of having an authentic experience of Vietnam as a visitor. I like the great variety, and freshness of the food from the local farms and local fishermen. Of course as in many Asian markets you do have to watch for Vietnamese shoppers riding their motorbikes through the narrow aisles between the stalls. Nevertheless, it is a great experience getting to see exactly what you are eating is way more comforting than buying it off the shelf at Costco. Besides who wouldn't want to ride their scooters in Costco and supermarkets if you were allowed to.

Pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623506032617/

Vi Than Market Video


This video will give you an idea of the market and the freshness of the food that you can get here in Vietnam as in the rest of Asia where these small farmers markets create income and a way of life.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

A former student


This is me with Aja and one of my students from last year Mai Anh. Also in the picture is her father Andy and his father. When Mai Anh was in my class last year she mentioned that her and her family were going to be in Viet Nam for new year. Thanks to the internet, I was able to kept in touch with her but thinking that she was talking about January and our schedule did not quite work out to meet them. In January we were still in Eastern Europe. Then I realized that she was talking about the Vietnamese New year. So we were able to fly from Thailand to Ho Chi Minh city Vietnam and travel south through the Meklong delta to visit her and her family in their Village (Vi Thanh) in the south of Vietnam. The third day of the New Year is dedicated to teachers, so when we showed up at the village we were treated with great respect by the family and he locals who do not get too many tourists in their village. Some times and in some places it is great to be a teacher.

Traveling to the Mekong Delta



Our journey from the airport in Ho Chi Minh city (HCM) to the village of Vi Than, in the Mekong delta, will always bring a laugh and a smile to my face. The traffic and driving rules in Vietnam are so alien to any normal way of thinking that I will dedicate another blog entry to it (along with some hilarious video). Anyway in HCM no one had ever heard of the village of Vi Than, luckily my brother had prepared us well with a map and a Lonely Planet Guide book, which did not even have the village of Vi than in it. But we knew the closest largest city was Can Tho so decided to head there. We took a taxi to the western bus station in HCM city to discover that, like in Turkey, the bus station consists of 30+ different bus windows for different bus companies, all of them waving to get your attention and business. We only had American money and nothing was in English so I chose the window with the only English word "express." I showed them my map, none of them spoke English, flashed some U.S. green and a half hour later we were on a 4 hour bus ride on narrow roads across several rivers to Can Tho.

We arrived in Can Tho, not at a bus station, but at the local office for the specific bus company we chose. There were no buses from that company further into the Mekong Delta. Showing our map to a couple of guys on motor cycles who, with with hand gestures, finally figured out that we wanted to go to another bus company, not ride with them on the back of their motor bikes for the hour to Vi Than. So after a couple of minutes, with Aja on the back of one motor bike and me on the other, zipping down the road the motorcycle taxi guy noticed the bus to Vi Than driving ahead of us. So after a short chase, he got the attention of the bus driver who pulled over and we were on the bus to Vi Than...does the adventure end there, naah but you get the picture.... however, everyone said the trip should take about seven hours... we made it in five....

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Helping hand

My Brother in Common-Law Pierre sent me an e-mail that said: "When I was in Eastern Europe... a couple of years ago, the thing that I found the most remarkable was the infinite variety and number of people everywhere, busy doing their things... each one the center of their own universe. Can you believe there are so many feelings being felt, so many tastes tasted, so many marks of love shared, so many laughs and tears happening at the same time in so many different places?"

Here in Vietnam I had a very similar feeling. I had not known Mai Anh's family except in dealing with them as the teacher of their daughter who was one of my top students. He is a hard working fellow at a home building company in Victoria and his wife is a stay at home mom raising their three children, pretty common. Here in Vietnam he is one of ten brothers and sisters, and his wife is also one of ten brothers and sisters. Their parents and many of their siblings families run local businesses and are highly respected members of the town.

In Canada Andy is just a guy trying to get through the day like the rest of us... Here in Vietnam he is highly respected and honored for his courage to leave his home town to discover a new way of life across the globe. While in the village Aja and I paid for nothing and were continuously treated to the generous hospitality of Any and his family. It was a heart warming and heart moving experience. I will never look at a lowly hard working immigrant in the same way again and suggest we all extend, not just our hand, but also our friendship and understanding to strangers who risk everything to become members of our communities. I had to go half way across the world to meet someone who lives in the same town as me.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Sugar and Spice and everything nice

It is with a great delight that Aja and I welcomed Layli, my middle daughter, to join us in Thailand. These moments with her in Thailand were joyful moments, and I hope she will have happy memories of this time and this place. I know I will. I know Aja will... and now that Layli is back in Alberta Canada, finishing her journeyman training as an electrician, I hope she knows how much we miss her.

Family on Bridge


The girls and myself along with my brothers wife and her brother and their children spent a day bike riding around Ancient Siam stopping at this bridge to appreciate one small bridge monument in this theme park dedicated to the continuity of history, cultures, religions, arts and customs of Thai people from dawn until now. (see previous post about having a journey around Thailand in one day).

Bike Tour

An interesting tourist attraction is called Ancient Siam (or Ancient City)... This attraction is dubbed as the world's largest outdoor museum. The 320-hectare attraction is a gateway to Thailand's cultural heritage features 116 structures of Thailand's famous monuments and architectural attractions. It is a Disney sized tourist attraction that is so large you have to bike around it. The grounds of Ancient Siam correspond roughly to the shape of the country, with each of the monuments lying at their correct relative places geographically. Some of the buildings are life-size replicas of existing or former sites, while others are scaled down to 1/5 the of the original size. Others are the originals which he moved from their original sites because they were becoming severely damaged. The founder's first idea was to create a golf course with miniatures of Thailand's historically significant structures spread around the course. Instead he created this, so in one day we were able to see all of ancient cities, ruins and architecture that constitute the splendors of Thailand's past . (note: I had the only bike with a bell... and ringing a bell is considered lucky in Thailand.)

314 Pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623609853034/

Ring a Bell for Luck

I know they start boxing rounds by ringing a bell and at university we were taught about Pavlov's dogs and how he trained them to respond to bells. Pavlov's research on conditional reflexes greatly influenced not only science, but also popular culture. The phrase "Pavlov's dog" being used to describe someone who merely reacts to a situation rather than using critical thinking. And although it may not be a science in Thailand bell ringing a bell is supposed to bring you luck... and of course when your sister has a stick in her hand and you hear a bell there are some other reactions that are natural too.... bad dogs...bad dogs

Aja's comment: I didn't hit her with a stick, she hit me.... and afterwards she mentioned something about a blue star blanket and a 14th birthday....

No bull... well one bull

When we were visiting one of the temples we came across this bull that had its rope wrapped around a pole. So I undid the rope and untangled the bull to get it to drinking water ... to thank me the bull tried to flip me into the air a couple of times... I think even Layli the Albertan was impressed at my bull riding technique ... note my perfect one hand in the air as seen at the Calgary stampede move...

Aja's comment: The bull was smelly.

Freeing turtles

Some people in Victoria have traveled to islands in the Pacific to help the sea turtles. We just came to the market and seeing a pail of small turtles bought the bunch and took them to the dock and released them... We also bought a bag full of small eels and small fish to release. The Thai's say it is lucky to help other living things.... So finally, after all the things people have imagined to give them luck from rabbits feet, the lucky rainbows in Ireland, to spinning on the bulls privates in Italy, here, at last, is a lucky custom that I will hold on to. Well hold on to then drop into the river....

Freeing Fish and Turtles Video


This is a short video of us releasing the turtles, fish, and eels that we bought at the market.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

See food

Fancy restaurants everywhere use lighting, sound, and attention to detail to create an artistic, atmosphere so our meal is a total sensory experience making the food taste great. If you have been in a restaurant like that then, whether or not the designer knew it they are using Feng Shui. Feng Shui, as I have learned here in Thailand, is also known as the art of Wind & Water - the art of flow. Here in Thailand, however, you can walk into any cement floored, florescent lighted, plastic plated, beside the road and open to the sounds of traffic without a single matching plate or cup and with a few dogs hanging around and...... THE FOOD IS AMAZING. Fresh, healthy, spicy and deeeelicious..... so as I see it, in Thailand restaurants have mastered reverse feng shui that is, by providing outstanding delicious food we are in harmony and at peace no matter what the environment... and on the up side they don't throw you out for eating the whole fish tail and all.

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

wat Arunratchawararam


I thought it interesting historically that temple (wat) Arunratchawararam, the Temple of the Dawn, which, although it is now a Buddhist temple, is actually named after Aruna, the Hindu god of the dawn. The Baha'i teaching that all religions are from the same God, and that we should study them all, means that every now and then I get to make a connection like that. Anyway, Wat Arunratchawararam is situated on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, and at 80+ meters is still a major landmark despite the many modern skyskrapers .

Wat Arun was built in the days of Thailand's ancient capital of Ayutthaya, and was originally known as Wat Makok ("Olive Temple"). The outstanding feature of Wat Arun is its central prang (a prang is a Khmer-style pagoda), which is about 80 meters tall and symbolizes the legendary Mount Meru, center of the universe. If this was in Canada no one would be allowed up these stairs because the steps are just short of vertical. Aja decided to stay on the lower levels while Layli and I climbed the prang up the very steep exterior steps to top terrace. With the spectacular view of the city I think that, even though it is named after the dawn, it would be spectacular to see the view at sunset. Although climbing down or up in anything but full daylight might be a challenge for most.

See pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623473775787/

Erawan


Even though the central tower (prang) at wat Arunratchawararam gets most of the glory, and the morning sun, the grounds are also quite delightful. Around the base of the prangs are various figures of ancient Chinese soldiers and animals. Over the second terrace are four statues of the Hindu god Indra riding on Erawan the mythological elephant Airavata... (I had to look that one up)... Layli, being from Alberta, could not be outdone in a rodeo ride-off so she rode the small dragon without getting bucked off, or, more importantly without getting us thrown off of the temple grounds.

Wet lands


The ‘Khao Sam Roi Yot’ National park and marshlands are are outstanding in their natural beauty and diversity of wild life... for example they have over 300 different recorded bird species and a vast number of other creatures in this amazing flora and fauna. As with all sensitive environments they are trying to educate and allow people into the wetlands while at the same time trying to minimize human interference ... always a trick, but that is what gives this park such great ecological and educational significance not just to Thailand but to the world. The fact that the World Conservation Union (IUCN) has recognized these fragile wetlands as a site of global importance shows me once again how interrelated and interdependent all of us are to all things... and how important it is for us to work globally... I have always thought the slogan 'think globally act locally' is misleading and self serving...especially in school where acting locally somehow only means getting kids to pick up the litter on the playground. I think it should be 'think globally act globally' so students can realize their larger connection to this planet and all people. I can also understand 'think locally act locally' but they are not the same thing.... ahhh I should have been a scientist.... and talking about globally thinking scientists...

As you can see in the picture Aja and Layli are fascinated as brother Thom, the scientist, showed us and went over a few of the names of the local plants...... starting with Casuaria equisetifolia (Sea oak), then on to the Theapesia populnea, Calophyllum inophyllum, Manilkara hexandra, Diospyros mollis (Ebony tree), Wrightia tomentosa (Ivory), Dracaena loureiri, Diospyros bejaudii, Afzelia xylocarpa, Rhizophora mucronata (Red mangrone), Rhizophora apiculata, Ceriops decandra, Xylocarpus granatum, Avicennia marina;

whereas social plants found in fresh pond are

Cyperus spp., Neyraudia reynaudiana, Arundo donax, Themeda arundinacea, Hymenachne pseudointerrupta, Leersia hexandra, Nymphaea spp., Marsilea creuata (Water clover) Alocasia sp.,

It is fascinating how interesting plants can be... thanks dr. thom..


Pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623598114508/

Bug eyes


With the 300 different recorded birds and thousands of creatures we only spotted about 8 types of birds and this beetle, the size of my fist, that rumbled like a tank as it flew. In fact I think there may only be 299 types of birds and someone mixed this thing up with the birds..... This is the creature that Aja wanted mentioned in an earlier blog, for as we were taking pictures of it... it leaped at us ... and there is some confusion about who hollered or screamed first and loudest and who started running first.... I say the girls ... they say me..... maybe they should call these Wet-lands the "don't get too close to the wildlife or you will Wet-your-pants-lands" ... right! you chicken girls of mine... anyway whoever jumped first probably had seen the same blue eyes on this bug as on that tough girl on ‘prison break.’ Those of you that have seen the show know how scary she is... anyway we risked our lives to get such up close and beautiful pictures of this bug... I can see why bug watching is not as popular as bird watching... but I know I will be watching out for that bug.. but not that I'm scared or anything...

Aja's comment: We (Layli & Aja) jumped because you (Dad) jumped. I (Aja) was standing behind you (Dad) and Layli jumped because you (Dad) screamed like a little girl.

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Large Buddha


This very large and imposing Buddha is just across the valley from a very large Chinese temple honoring a very large Chinese female deity. These and other large statues on the hills are not really designed for coming up and meditating at them but rather, like the large Christ statues, they are more like beacons for belief that can be seen from a great distance. I guess when people have forgotten how look at a mountain, and see the creation of God, we have to build a large monument or statue on them to remind us.

See pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623589363248/

Thai Boxing

We have visited many Buddhist temples and shrines. We have seen thousands of statues of the reclining, satisfied, contented, peaceful, appeasing, gentle Buddhas with his 108 auspicious characteristics. (auspicious meaning with favorable circumstances and good luck) So this temple was a bit of a fun surprise.... with the outside full of these Thai boxers showing what I assume must be what you do when you run into the 108 un-auspicious characters and have to know the 108 various Thai boxing fighting techniques. Being Wilson's, of course we had to wade into the fray kicking and punching...

See pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623589142300/

Monday, March 8, 2010

the Grand Palace Rocks

Amongst the glitter and the gold, and the mosaics and the murals stand the rock statues... hundreds of them... I think that having spent such a long time in the Canadian arctic the home of inukshuks I have an affinity to rock.... As well my father had a cement block factory in the Yukon and I have always appreciated the art of the stone. These rock beauties do not get the press of wonderful statues in Italy, may be if a couple of them were naked they might have a greater impact in the media... but I found them delightful ... rock on

tall thai guard

Every time Canadians sing the Canadian national anthem we say "we stand on guard for thee" but mostly we don't guard anything, we might be milling around trying to look busy but for sure not guarding, I would say mostly were just waiting for a game to begin. The guards at the government buildings at the Grand palace, however, now their guarding something. They are well disciplined, standing still in the 30+ degree weather in their dress uniforms while tourists stop and have their pictures taken with them. They don't move around while thousands of tourists wonder if they, like the Buckingham palace guards, can't move or if they are allowed to grab the miscreants and ne'er-do-wells. It is a hard but important job and we must do what it takes so that people never look down on even the lowliest of these guards...

p.s. do click on the picture to enlarge it...

Sunday, March 7, 2010

The Grand Palace


The Grand Palace grounds are one of the numero uno tourist attractions of Thailand. The palace grounds cover an area of 218,400 sq. meters and are surrounded by walls built in 1782. The length of the four walls is 1,900 meters. The Grand Palace houses several important structures: the Government offices, the Shrine of the Emerald Buddha and the Royal residences.

In tourist-friendly anything goes Thailand, the Grand Palace and grounds are one of those rare places with a visitors dress code. All guests are scrutinized at the entry gate: bermudas, short skirts, stringy wear, casual tourist and beach wear of all sorts are prohibited and not just because they are tacky. I am the only one that had to rent blue cover pants to cover my cool bright new short pants...

Stepping inside the compounds of the Grand Palace, you get transported to an altogether different world, a different era! Sprawled around as far as you can see are highly-decorated buildings, temples, stupas, statues, straight out of the Old world dazzling from top to bottom in their shiny traditional outfits of metallic foil, golden lacquer, encrusted with innumerable pieces of glass, ceramic, stone. I could see why they did not want us wearing our shorts and bright beach wear because so many of the tacky tourists would have gotten mixed up with many of the half dressed, brightly decorated blue, gold, and green creatures.

Aja's comment: No, dad is wrong, the reason they made him rent pants was because his are tacky.

photo's at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/72157623582192158/

The Emerald Buddha


The temple of the Emerald Buddha is the Thai equivalent to the Sistine Chapel with its walls and ceilings of gold, precious gems and painted murals depicting various stories of the life of Buddha. This statue itself is 48.2 centimeters (1.58 ft ) wide and its height, from the base to the top of its head, is 66 centimeters (2.16 ft) however, it sits atop a throne that must be around 9 m (30 feet tall), and is totally adorned in gold.

The emerald Buddha is actually Jade not emerald. The statue was discovered inside a ceramic outer shell of a Buddha, (which was common when you wanted to hide something of value from invading armies) the monk that discovered it though it was emerald.... and the legend grew from there that it was given by a King of Gods to Nagasena of Pataliputara who magically put seven pieces of the Buddha's Holy Relics into it. It is thought to be over 2000 years old and is so revered that it is forbidden (and against the law) to take photographs inside the temple, so I purchased a postcard to record the image. Like the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem it is weird to watch the devoted believers surrounded by the irreverent hoards of tourists.

Three times during the year the emerald Buddha’s golden outfits are changed by the King to correspond with Thailand’s three seasons. (hot season, rainy season, and cool season). While the ceremony is going on it marks a short close to the fourth and perpetual season at this sacred spot, tourist season.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Ice Cream

"There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face."
Ben Williams

And I am sure that there is not dog anywhere that would not say they that would like to be paid for the service by licking your ice-cream cone, and I am sure dog psychiatrists everywhere would say there is no more well balanced and contented dog than one licking your ice-cream cone. Aja and Layli would have had to buy quite a few extra ice cream cones to treat this canine pack begging for left-overs at this ice cream stand. Only one of the sisters caved to feeding her ice-cream to this cute band of beggars with sad eyes, smiling mouths and wagging tails......

Reclining Buddha


Wat Pho is the home of, well more like the bedroom of, Thailand’s largest reclining Buddha image. The gold-plated Reclining Buddha statue is 46 meters long and 15 meters high, and commemorates the passing of the Buddha into Nirvana. The statue’s eyes and feet are decorated with engraved mother of pearl, the soles of His feet displaying the 108 auspicious characteristics of the true Buddha. I think it would be truer if they said the characteristics are on the soul not just on the soles of his feet.

The Wat Pho contains more than 1000 other Buddha images, more than any other temple. The temple is also famous as a school for teaching traditional Thai massage. So after walking to see the whole Wat you can recline yourself while the soles of your own feet enter nirvana.

“Nothing can cure the soul but the senses, just as nothing can cure the senses but the soul.”
Oscar Wilde

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Table Barbecue


One very interesting and tasty restaurant was an all you can eat barbecue restaurant... they charged you by the head, and you were allowed pick all the food you wanted, all you had to do was prepare it on your own individual table barbecue. They charged you extra for any food that you took but did not eat, which I though was a fair rule to stop people from wasting food... but it was so tasty we ate most everything we took.... of course we put some down for the restaurant dog... this restaurant has one of my brother's favorite food dogs... although he said this one was elusive and hard to take a picture of.... but for a piece of squid the hound became a poser...

beach bbq


In thailand as everywhere there are people trying to sell things on the beach.... I thought what this guy was peddling was unique and tasty... He carried his portable barbecue and roasted corn.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Day floating market


Thailand's floating markets are among the most-photographed destinations in the country. The river and 'klong' markets give a realistic glance of how daily life must have been in earlier times. The floating markets are where the sellers, their boats laden with a wide variety of tropical fruits, flowers, vegetables and fresh produce, come to meet and barter their products with other traders. These days, in the larger cities, modern supermarkets and department stores have largely replaced the traditional floating markets, but a few still survive. It would be a shame to loose them and thanks to the tourists and the unique quality of life they bring I think they may survive.

pictures at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26080359@N08/sets/

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Floating Market Night


The first market shown usually starts off at dawn, and most traders have already gone back home by late morning. This market further up the river and very close to where my brother lives, starts in the afternoon and goes into the evening. This is partly because along this stretch of the river are millions of fire-flies that brighten the night sky and river tour.... the best way to fully appreciate a floating market is to hire a long-tailed boat. A tour along the klongs also gives you an appreciation of Thai homes and gardens.



floating market video


The video of the floating market..

Monday, March 1, 2010

the fast


I have never had to do the Baha'i fast in 30 to 40 degree temperatures before so it should be little different physical experience than I am used to... I have always loved fasting and the lessons I gain from it... In Canada people often do not understand the power of fasting beyond giving up cake, however, fasting is common to the Buddhists so I am looking forward to it....I flashed up this picture of us on our visit to a contented Buddha as a before shot....ha ha... although loosing weight is not a goal of fasting... it is more of a side effect... fasting is about mindfulness, sacrifice, discipline and control and is one of the important pillars to a spiritual life, along with service to others, prayer and meditation... aja is too young to fast ... but she rubbed the Buddha's belly to wish me luck...

p.s. This will be the first year that I will not have to whine about missing Tim Horton's Roll Up the Rim, which always happens during the Baha'i Fast from March 2 - 19 .... as there is no Tim Hortons at all here in Thailand...for you Canadians I am sure you can start a Facebook group or something to get the time of "the roll" moved to a different time of the year.... hey maybe there is a lesson to learn from the small sacrifice of missing 'the roll'